The ethos at Marmalade, which occupies what was formerly The Nose on the fashionable Beech Road in Chorlton, is that their food has the greatest respect for British tradition. Food that your parents grew up on, but it’s cooked in a modern context. Ingredients are sourced from local, independent farmers. This award-winning restaurant is in the Michelin Bar & Bistro Guide 2007 and only two Lancashire establishments made the grade.

The interior matches the purported simplicity of the food, with cherry wood dining furniture, magnolia with aquamarine colour scheme, wooden floors, a few framed pictures of everyday objects and the occasional flower display. There is a sublime Englishness about the place, an informal, comfortable feeling is if we’re dining in our favourite aunt’s (impeccably dressed) house in a Cheshire village. Except, our aunt’s dining room won’t fit 70 covers.

To understand the point about back-to-basics, British simplicity, just examine the menu. The main courses include such classics as bangers and mash (£6.95, with vegetarian option available), lemon sole (£14.50), roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and vegetables (£12.50), pie, chips and gravy (£10.50). The last option might sound a bit too ‘local chippy’ for some, but the pie options include smoked haddock and prawn for the seafood lovers and those wanting some adventure in their pies.

We never expected to be disappointed with Marmalade and the reputation is justified. During the winter and spring months they have served some hearty, wholesome food but it’s hard to adjust for the summer without the menu becoming a list of salads. We might need to make a return visit to make a comparison.

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